readings in the twilight between hope and despair

“Extinction is a rupture in the world. Each time a species is lost it takes with it not just its genetics, but its nature, its way of being in the world. And as it does the universe is lessened.” James Bradley My intention with sharing these readings is to provoke thought, and more so, emotion that leads to action. We cannot afford to remain indifferent, placid, inert, calm. Regarding the title, hear Greta Thunberg: “And yes, we do need hope,Read more

Community Event at ArtEZ, June 5, 2019

Yesterday I participated at the ‘Community Event’ of the ArtEZ Fashion Professorship and MA Fashion Held in Common, via Skype because I have chosen to no longer fly to give presentations and workshops. This decision was a direct result of the IPCC Special Report released in October. For years I have known the hypocrisy in my work – I have been flying a lot to talk – and I am taking it on now. This is not a judgment onRead more

What we should be talking about

Below is an edited version of my response to a recent interview request on fashion waste. I realise that my PhD on zero waste fashion design (completed in 2012 and conferred in 2013) and to some extent the 2010 New York Times article sometimes put me in a time capsule for people. It’s not a problem but this post aims to give some shape to my current thinking, in a relatively concise post. I hope it helps journalists and studentsRead more

Union of Concerned Researchers in Fashion

On November 1, 2018, at the Global Fashion Conference 2018, titled ‘What’s Going On?’, Professor Lynda Grose concluded her keynote with a call to form a Union of Concerned Researchers in Fashion. Mathilda Tham, Kate Fletcher and I took her literally and formed the Union with her. Since then, Otto von Busch and Tone Tobiasson have also joined the board. Please read the Union’s manifesto, and statement regarding the Copenhagen Fashion Summit, taking place next week. If the Union manifestoRead more

Vivienne Westwood A/W 2019-20

The Vivienne Westwood autumn/winter 2019-20 show took place yesterday in London. As an activist, I wholeheartedly loved the subverting of a powerful tool of commerce to deliver an urgent message. Unlike some other recent attempts of fashion-show-as-a-demontration, this one to me had substance. (And it pissed off the reviewer from Vogue, so that’s something.) As a wearer of Westwood, I adored the clothes, some of them from past collections. As a sustainability scholar, however, I am conflicted. Westwood has provenRead more

Postcards from the Edge

Postcards from the Edge, a benefit for Visual Aids, is in its 21st year, and it is my first year participating. If you’re in New York February 22-24, I hope you join us! It’s a brilliant opportunity to score an affordable ($85) artwork from a well-known artist (including Liz Collins, LJ Roberts, Tom Bianchi and many others) or a newcomer like me. (Newcomer in art – I have no illusions about being middle-aged!) And it’s for a great cause; theRead more

Rest in Porn at Stitch Fetish 7

Six years ago I began a project, Rest In Porn, critiquing the reaction of some members of the gay community to the suicides of three prominent gay porn actors. I am now revisiting that work through cross-stitched poetry. Peter and Dror are part of Stitch Fetish 7, curated by Ellen Schinderman, opening at the Hive Gallery in Downtown Los Angeles this Saturday. Details are below. I’ll miss the opening due to work travel but hope you’ll go if you’re inRead more

Connections on climate, circularity, plastics and biodiversity

Jasmin Malik Chua is a long-time fashion and sustainability reporter; we first crossed paths when she was writing for the now-defunct Ecouterre. She asked me for some predictions on sustainability for 2019 for Sourcing Journal; the article is now out, and it’s great for having voices from very different parts of the fashion system. Thank you, Jasmin! As always happens, space is a constraint so I’m once again posting my entire response here: Following the reports that came out inRead more

Journey to America

Whispers, a poem about displacement as a response to discrimination, will be part of ‘Journey to America – How Stories of Immigration Shape our Heritage and Culture’, at The Art Center Highland Park in Illinois, north of Chicago. The opening reception is on March 9th, 6-8pm. The Art Center Highland Park, 1957 Sheridan Rd, Highland Park, IL 60035    Read more